A small log cabin with chinked walls, a board gable and two windows, under oak trees in Heg Park, September 2013

Farm and ranch town

Muskego Settlement

One of the first Norwegian colonies in America, settled in 1839 on low, wet ground across the Waukesha and Racine county line. Malaria and cholera drove its people elsewhere. A churchyard, a state marker and a county park with two moved buildings are what is left to see.

42°48′11″N 88°10′16″W · ≈850 ft

Photo: Vintagepix, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

Settlement gone · access not verified

Nothing of the 1840s colony stands as a town. The 1963 Old Muskego marker, at Heg Park Road and Norway Hill Road below Norway Lutheran Church, and Hans Christian Heg's grave in the churchyard were photographed on October 17, 2026. Heg Park across the road is a Racine County park; the county's page lists shelters and restrooms but no hours, and we found no current hours for the Norway Historical Society's museum and buildings there. The church and cemetery belong to the congregation.

Overview

A colony that fever emptied

Norway Lutheran Church, built in 1869, and its churchyard in snow, February 2008
Norway Lutheran Church, built in 1869, and its churchyard in snow, February 2008 · Photo: William Garrett, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

In 1839 a party of emigrants from Telemark, led by John Nielsen Luraas, claimed 640 acres in what is now Waukesha County. The next year Søren Bache and Johannes Johannsen bought land just south, at Wind Lake in Racine County, and Even Heg arrived with a party from the Drammen district. The colony that grew across the county line became one of the first Norwegian settlements in the United States and, for a few years, a gateway for the emigrants who came after.

It punched above its size. Heg's barn sheltered hundreds of newcomers and held the first services. Claus Clausen came as pastor in 1843, and the congregation built a church on land Heg gave. Johannsen's Muskego Manifesto of 1845 answered Norway's campaign against emigration, and Reymert, Heg and Bache started Nordlyset, the first Norwegian-language newspaper in the country. The ground was low and wet, though. Malaria and ague were constant, and cholera struck in 1849 and again in 1851. Families moved on, mostly to other parts of southern Wisconsin, and the original settlement was abandoned. The 1980 National Register nomination calls it short-lived.

The church hill is the place to go. A brick church of 1869 stands where the log church stood until 1904, when it was taken apart and rebuilt in St. Paul, Minnesota. The graves of the first settlers, Col. Hans Christian Heg among them, run down the hill to Heg Park Road. Across the road, Heg Memorial Park has kept an 1837 log cabin and a house Elling Eielsen lived in since 1928 and 1933, and the state's Old Muskego marker stands at the foot of the hill. Today the land around it is farm fields and houses, so nobody should expect a ghost town of empty buildings.

Timeline

From Telemark to the church hill

The 1844 log church, drawn for Rasmus B. Anderson's history of Norwegian emigration, 1896
The 1844 log church, drawn for Rasmus B. Anderson's history of Norwegian emigration, 1896 · Photo: Unnamed artist, in Rasmus B. Anderson, The First Chapter of Norwegian Immigration, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
  1. John Nielsen Luraas leads a party of emigrants from Telemark, Norway, to Wisconsin. They claim 640 acres in what is now Waukesha County. Elling Eielsen, the lay preacher, emigrates the same year by Wikipedia's account and spends time at Muskego; the 1980 National Register nomination says he came to the settlement in 1840.
  2. Søren Bache and Johannes Johannsen buy land just south, at Wind Lake in Racine County, so the colony straddles the county line. Even Heg, a former innkeeper from Lier, brings a party from the Drammen district, his son Hans Christian among them.
  3. Even Heg's barn, the social and religious center of the colony, serves as the first American home for hundreds of newcomers. Claus Lauritz Clausen arrives as pastor and the congregation builds its church on land Heg gave.
  4. The church is dedicated, by the caption in Rasmus B. Anderson's 1896 history. The National Register nomination for Heg Park calls it the first Norwegian Lutheran church built in America and dates it to 1843.
  5. Johannsen's open letter answering Norway's campaign against emigration, the Muskego Manifesto, appears in the Christiania paper Morgenbladet on April 1.
  6. James DeNoon Reymert, Heg and Bache start Nordlyset, the first Norwegian-language newspaper in the United States; the National Register nomination says Heg talked Bache into paying for it in 1847. It is sold and moved to Racine in 1850.
  7. The town of Norway is organized in Racine County.
  8. Cholera strikes at least twice, in 1849 and 1851, on top of the malaria and ague of the low, wet ground. Settlers move away, mostly to other parts of southern Wisconsin, and the original settlement is abandoned.
  9. The town of Norway still counts more than 750 people, 404 of them born in Norway. Even Heg dies.
  10. Col. Hans Christian Heg of the 15th Wisconsin dies of wounds at Chickamauga. He is buried in the churchyard on the hill.
  11. A brick church replaces the log church on the same hilltop.
  12. The old church is taken apart, moved to St. Paul, Minnesota, and rebuilt at the United Church Seminary, now Luther Seminary. Wikipedia credits the historian Hjalmar Holand with the move.
  13. Heg Memorial Park is planned across the road from the church; it opens in 1928 as Racine County's first county park. An 1837 log cabin from the Bendickson farm is moved in that year, and a house Elling Eielsen lived in follows in 1933.
  14. The Wisconsin Historical Society puts up the Old Muskego marker, state marker 129, at the foot of the church hill.
  15. The old church in St. Paul joins the National Register on May 12, 1975; the church, cabin and Eielsen house at Heg Park follow on July 17, 1980.
  16. Photos of the marker and of Heg's grave, taken on October 17, 2026, are posted to Wikimedia Commons.

What's left

A church hill and a county park

The Eielsen house at Heg Park, September 2013
The Eielsen house at Heg Park, September 2013 · Photo: Vintagepix, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hans Christian Heg's grave in the churchyard, October 2026
Hans Christian Heg's grave in the churchyard, October 2026 · Photo: Prburley, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

The 1980 National Register nomination calls the church and the park's two old buildings virtually the only reminders of the settlement years. The church of 1869 is brick, with a clapboard steeple that replaced the stone original in 1921. Around it are the graves of the first settlers, about 150 marked in 1980 and many more unmarked, running to the edge of the hill. Heg's own stone, an obelisk carved with a flag and a Masonic emblem, stands among them.

In Heg Park, the log cabin was built in 1837 and stood on the Halvor Bendickson farm in the settlement until it was moved in 1928. The Eielsen house is the one sources disagree about. A sign at the park dates it to 1847, but the nomination says no document supports that date. The nomination's first text has it moved from Racine County; its revised description of July 1980 says it came from Jefferson Prairie in Rock County, where Eielsen preached after leaving Muskego. The log church the settlers built is not here at all. It has stood in St. Paul since 1904.

The old maps below show the setting. The 1891 Muskego sheet shows marsh, a road over the hill, Waubeesee Lake to the north and Wind Lake to the northeast. By 1901 the same sheet labels the cluster of buildings on the church hill Wind Lake and calls the lake to the north Minister Lake, and the 1959 Waterford sheet marks the church, Heg Memorial Park and Colonel Heg School there. On the 1980 map the name Wind Lake has moved north to the village on the lake shore.

  • Norway Lutheran Church (1869)
  • Churchyard with the settlers' graves and Col. Heg's grave
  • Bendickson log cabin (1837, moved 1928)
  • Eielsen house (moved 1933)
  • Old Muskego marker (1963)
  • Original log church: in St. Paul, Minnesota, since 1904
USGS topographic map with Heg Park Road and WI 36 running southwest to northeast, Norway Town Hall above center and Bisanabi Lake to the west
USGS The National Map, topo. Heg Park Road climbs the hill beside WI 36. Norway Town Hall is just north, and Bisanabi Lake lies to the west.
Aerial view of a highway running diagonally past ball fields, parking lots, scattered buildings and farm fields
Aerial imagery, same area. WI 36 runs diagonally at right; the ball fields, lots and buildings beside it are around the park and church, with farm fields beyond.

Historic maps

Muskego Settlement on USGS maps, 1891–1980

Crops from the USGS Historical Topographic Map Collection, centered on the townsite. Each sheet shows what surveyors mapped that year; compare them with today's topo and aerial on this page.

USGS topographic map around Muskego Settlement, 1891
Muskego sheet, 1891, 1:62,500 · U.S. Geological Survey, public domain · catalog record

Map & directions

Getting there

Waterford is the nearest town, about 15 minutes away. From Milwaukee the route runs down I-43 and out Loomis Road (WI 36). Both routes end on Heg Park Road at the church hill. Our map point is the church and the marker; Wikipedia's coordinates for the settlement fall about 3.5 miles southwest, south of Waterford, where no source we read places it.

USGS topographic map between Waterford and the Norway church hill with the route drawn on it

Base map: USGS The National Map (public domain). Routes: OSRM on © OpenStreetMap contributors data (ODbL), computed October 2026. Times assume dry roads.

From Waterford6.9 miabout 15 min
  1. From Waterford, turn right on Buena Park Road.2.0 mi
  2. Turn left on West Main Street (WI 20 / WI 83).1.7 mi
  3. Turn left on WI 36.2.7 mi
  4. Turn left on Heg Park Road to the church hill and the park.0.5 mi

Road and safety notes

  • The routes are computed from OpenStreetMap and haven't been driven by us. We have no dated source on road surfaces.
  • The church and churchyard are the congregation's property. Visit quietly and keep clear of services and burials.
  • Heg Park is a Racine County park with picnic shelters and restrooms, per the county. The county's page gives no opening hours, and we found no current schedule for the Norway Historical Society's museum and buildings.

Photos

Muskego Settlement in photos

Visitor reports

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Nearby

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Sources

Sources and credits

  1. Wikipedia, "Muskego Settlement, Wisconsin", retrieved October 2026: Luraas and the Telemark party of 1839, the 640 acres in Waukesha County, Bache and Johannsen in Racine County in 1840, the Muskego Manifesto, Heg's barn, Clausen, Eielsen, Reymert and Nordlyset, malaria and the cholera of 1849 and 1851, the abandonment, the church's move in 1904 and the 1963 marker. Its coordinates are not used (see directions).
  2. National Register nomination, "Norwegian Buildings at Heg Park", Terry L. Shoptaugh, State Historical Society of Wisconsin, December 1979, revised July 1980, listed July 17, 1980: the short-lived Muskego community, Bache's land at Wind Lake, Heg's leadership and barn, the 1843 church and its 1869 successor, the 1921 steeple, the town of Norway in 1848 and 1850, the park of 1925 to 1928, the Bendickson cabin and Eielsen house, about 150 graves.
  3. Wikipedia, "Norway Lutheran Church" (the Old Muskego Church), retrieved October 2026: the land given by Even Heg, 25 years of use, the 1869 replacement, the 1904 move to St. Paul led by Hjalmar Holand, the National Register listing of May 12, 1975.
  4. Wikipedia, "Hans Christian Heg", retrieved October 2026: the family's arrival in 1840, Even Heg's death in 1850, Heg's death at Chickamauga and burial at Norway Lutheran Church Cemetery.
  5. Racine County, "Colonel Heg Memorial Park", read October 20, 2026: 6300 Heg Park Road, 20 acres, shelters and restrooms, and the Norway Historical Society's museum and buildings at 6419 Heg Park Road. No hours given.
  6. Paul R. Burley, "Old Muskego Historical Marker" and "Colonel Hans C. Heg Grave Marker", Wikimedia Commons, photographed October 17, 2026: the marker's number, date and place at Norway Hill Road and Heg Park Road, and its camera location, used for our map point.
  7. Rasmus B. Anderson, The First Chapter of Norwegian Immigration (1896), via Wikimedia Commons: the drawing of the church and its caption dating the dedication to 1844.
  8. Wikipedia, "List of ghost towns in Wisconsin", retrieved October 2026: lists Muskego Settlement in Racine County.
  9. Photos: Wikimedia Commons, credited below each one. Elevation: USGS 3D Elevation Program point query. Historic maps: USGS. Routes: OSRM on OpenStreetMap data, October 2026. Not field-checked.

Photo and map credits